129801584446797500_154Wang Yongqiang fashion brands involved dirt 48 brands such as adidas, Nike, ZARA full column "asset light" mode question Editor's note/April 9, 4 domestic environmental protection agency joint publication of the select textiles for fashion trash green supply chain research report brand in China, including adidas, Nike, hIncluding their supply chains are present excessive emissions "water pollution". As of April 24, only 23 companies, "replies received and background". Reporter through an in-depth survey, found some little-known, and discharging sub-standard sewage associated industrial chain. More than half a month, jingjing Wang does not alleviate worries because of Ma June awards. Jingjing Wang is of public and Environmental AffairsCenter (hereinafter referred to as IPE) Deputy Director, MA June is the Director of the IPE, which for more than 10 years is committed to environmental protection and in April 16, 2012 was awarded the Goldman Environmental Prize. But even if IPE belongs to one of the large influence of the environmental NGO organizations at home and abroad, its release on April 9 4 domestic environmental protection agency selected for fashion trash green textilesWeaving brand in China supply chain research report (hereinafter referred to as the report) feedback hardly satisfactory. The report said, including adidas, Nike, hHas not yet recognized that the report displays its supply chain "pollution-related" seriousness of the situation. In fact, with environmental groups information openness at all levels continued to deepen, many fashion brands how to manage supply chain, ensure its primary supplier even secondary raw materials suppliers, environmental compliance, have become the clear difficulties of its brand communication of potential risks and priorities. Fashion of "dirt"Advertised as the shatianlihai did not like its own "low-carbon manufacturing", and monitoring of the Environmental Protection Department data also means: the enterprise cooperation cottoninc, cottonusa, Lycra, outlast
tera power leveling, Lenzing, UNIFI-Inc, supimacotton, creora etc brandSupply chain monitoring duty. As the world's leading manufacturers of knitted fabrics, fountain set (Holdings) Limited (0420.HK, hereinafter referred to as "Fountain") seems to be hard for people to be associated with discharge excess sewage. Fountain official website notice and listing information is displayed, in January 2012, the company has just been granted Federation of Hong Kong industries and the Hang Seng Bank "Hang SengTwo thousand ten-elevenths Green Pearl River Delta environmental awards Medal "and" 3 years participating in "Medal; its subsidiary Dongguan shatianlihai printing and dyeing Co Ltd (hereinafter referred to as" shatianlihai ") at the 2011 World Wide Fund for nature in low-carbon manufacturing plan, by 2010," certified "label is increased dramatically to" gold "rating, to indicate that the shatianlihai" in 2011Implementation of low-carbon manufacturing scheme "to reduce carbon emissions, establish a management system for greenhouse gas emissions and follow the energy in the manufacturing process and operations best practices. According to data from the report, shatianlihai to us $ 230 million turnover, China National textiles import and export Chamber of Commerce "2010 Chinese fabrics export enterprises ranked fifth in the", but pollution map of IPEDatabase of the enterprise more bad records. In April 2009, the Guangdong Ocean and fishery Bureau released 2008 Bulletin of marine environment quality in Guangdong province showed that shatianlihai industrial wastewater outfalls to the sea waste water discharge standard of water pollutants in water quality over the Guangdong Province (DB4426-2001) licensing standards. A year later in April 2010, Sha TinLake Ocean again, "move", its sewage is still excessive. Moreover, Dongguan environmental protection petition public announcements (weekly) according to the information on July 23, 2010: the company "requirement as scheduled out of 5 sets of 1000KW power-fuel diesel generator is still not removed; 6-bed without the environmental approval settings (3 sets, 1 sets, 2 sets of 3MW is disabled) have matching granite dust in coal-fired heat-conducting oil furnace processing facilities, but the facility without the acceptance of the environmental sector ". April 12, 2011, the Guangdong provincial environmental protection Bureau on 2010 environmental protection in Guangdong Province key polluting sources credit rating results, yanguan for environmental protection of the business enterprise (red card), until December 5, 2011, the Guangdong Environmental Protection BureauShatianlihai "basic compliance with environmental management requirements", cancel their red card logo. Obviously, 2011 at least 4 months, advertised as the shatianlihai did not like its own "low-carbon manufacturing", and monitoring of the Environmental Protection Department data also means, and the enterprise cooperation cottoninc, cottonusa, Lycra, outlaSt, Lenzing, UNIFI-Inc, supimacotton, and creora and other brands for supply chain monitoring duty. According to the China Daily (micro-blogging) reporter has learned that the brands mentioned above is by no means have "oversight" responsibility of all brands. As early as June 2006
tera power leveling, Dongguan Fu an textile printing and dyeing Co Ltd under the fountain (Hereinafter referred to as "Fu an textile"), that is by the Guangdong provincial environmental protection Bureau and the State environmental protection administration of China when he was discovered by a joint investigation team: the outfall of the River is located in Dongguan, Shenzhen maozhouhe, sishe row of two pipelines to steal. One iron pipe diameter up to 25 cm, consists of two covered with cement tight concealed valve control, directly to more than 20,000 tons per day of printing and dyeing wastewaterStealing into the river; according to the sampling, serious over the sewage waste water, excessive color up to 19.5 times times more. In order to cope with the daily green check, Steamboat textiles has also made a point of doing this even to environmental protection Department of water consumption statistics books. Steamboat textiles in an interview to the Wall Street Journal reporter Jane Spencer found, including Gap, TommY Hilfiger Corp., Reebok and Nike and other companies are customers of the Steamboat textile. And was fined $ 1.5 million fine by environmental protection Department and invested $ 2.7 million to upgrade sewage treatment equipment, fountain does not seem to fully learn. Fountain 2011 fiscal year (as of August 31, 2011) annual report, the GroupIts latest cloth plant--located in Yancheng, Jiangsu Yancheng FXCM textile company limited (hereinafter referred to as "Fu Hui textile") was put into production in fiscal year 2010, the company target is within the fiscal year 2012, maintaining the FXCM textile Ranbu capacity of 3 million pounds per month, and Yancheng plant all sections after the construction is complete, depending on the market situation would FXCM textile Ranbu can produce up to 10 points. Problem is, Yancheng, Jiangsu provincial Department of environmental protection issued on FXCM zhiran textile limited 55,000 tons of high grade knitted fabrics and finishing project environmental impact report approved shows
tera gold, regardless of atmospheric pollutant or the wastewater emission targets, fountain project credits by yunzhun of Yancheng is quite amazing: for example, FXCM textiles were approved by theSulphur dioxide emissions to 79.46 tons, annual emissions of 4.317 million tons of waste water. "In Yancheng City in northern Jiangsu, smaller than the Guangdong water environment capacity, sewage is a large amount of the approved, on local rivers and coastal waters will impact how pending further study. In view of the Steamboat textile lessons before, we call on the FXCM textile strengthening pollution control andEnvironmental information disclosure, at the same time appeal to its customers be concerned. "The report is not without concern wrote. This fountain responded that: "Steamboat in Dongguan wastewater treatment system design is the use of in-plant waste water after treatment of buried plant emissions; sewage treatment arrangements of Yancheng, and FXCM is in the factory before the preliminary sewage treatment, then row in the Government zone, central water treatmentFactory set emission after treatment. "Mode" worries "many brands supply chain involving pollution, one of the very important reason is: under the general trend of the global division of labour, many fashion brands city" asset light "mode. In fact, like the fountain in fiscal 2011-scale enterprises of up to HK $ 7.6 billion in turnover, is more likely to be the public closedNote to industry leader, smaller and more small and medium-sized textile enterprise of emissions is also striking, and difficult to be found. As the textile industry "workshop of the world", China textile network statistics, China's textile and clothing exports amounted to us $ 212 billion, 34% per cent of total world exports, and the same year, China's total textile fiber processing of 41.3 million tons,Approximately 52%~54% of the world. The China Environmental Statistics Yearbook (2010) shows that 39 major industrial COD textile industry in China (chemical oxygen demand, chemical oxygen demand more, shows more serious organic pollution of water body) emissions in fourth, is ranked third in total waste water emissions, annual emissions about $ 2.455 billion tons of waste water, China2010 industrial waste 11.6%. In 2006, this proportion is only 9.6%. "Many brands supply chain involving pollution, one of the very important reason is that, under the general trend of the global division of labour, many fashion brands Shangdu took ' light assets ' operating mode. "Jing Jing Wong said. So-called light asset model, the brand is primarily responsible forProduct development, design and brand communication, production, logistics and outsourcing operations, such as links to third-party vendors. In this mode, the main energy brands can be used for branding, and accept orders orders for third-party vendors can obtain a number of brands, which can be conducted in larger procurement, production so as to reduce production costs, both sides Everything in Its Right Place. But usuallyStatements, brand profit margins well above third-party OEM (OEM) vendors. Nike, for example, their own, often through a strong brand of premium, you can get 40% per cent of the gross profit margin, while its generation plants, gross margin is often lower than 10% (source: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 the Chinese environment statistical report》)。 Of course, product sourcing, supply chain stretching, brands such as Nike, for terminals and monitoring the impact of the supply chain was ignored. A very obvious fact is that fountain of such textile raw material suppliers are not directly associated with the brand, but the brand factory was likely to buy fountain set textile materials for companies outsourcing orderProduction. So, if companies cannot effectively monitor their OEM manufacturer, OEM manufacturers to compress raw material procurement costs of "worry", can be easily delivered to the terminal's suppliers of raw materials, in front of been depressing prices, raw material producer enterprises sewage treatment appeared to be quite expensive. Get NikeIdentify key is, in 2000, the Nike admits that without the knowledge of the case, its football factories employing child labour in Pakistan to sewing soccer; this information after the burst out, Nike factory monitoring mechanisms have been improved, more business in cooperation with Nike introduced stricter environmental regulation requirements. But it is still unable to avoid the endless stream of Nike's supply chain supervisorTube challenge. In 2006, third-party agency FLA (Fair Labor Association) when SAGA plant to Pakistan to investigate, found that the family work and child labour-intensive factories. After the incident, under the pressure of public opinion, Nike terminated the contract with SAGA. And similar events in 2003-2007 were staged in the country, a large number of orders for Nike hand sewn soccerBy its suppliers, go to regions such as in jinzhai, Anhui, Jiangsu Huaian rural families (see our September 28, 2009, of the blind spot of Nike). Cost dilemma enterprise solutions in addition to emissions outside the relative concentration of distribution areas, costs will continue to increase, in this case, to cleaning up textile enterprise's supply chain from your source pollution-related problems, vendor transitionUpgrade and the brands who enjoy no doubt more important. Due to layers of subcontractors and product purchase price and depressing, created a brand of supervision "blind spots". And the rising cost of labour, means of, let the fountain in struggling with the environment of the global financial crisis. On April 16, the fountain released in 2012 (February 29),The indicators overall declining: turnover fell by 12.8%; gross margin fell from 16.2% per cent, the company loss of HK $ 157.6 million, 2011 company profit of $ 154.1 million Hong Kong dollars in the same period. "During the fiscal year in the first half of 2012, by high unemployment and fears of European debt defaults arising from factors such as the North American and European economic ringBorder grim, weakened consumer confidence and declining demand for textiles, thereby affecting the company during this sales prices and sales volumes. At the same time, as the cotton (21100,-65.00,-0.31%) and cotton prices fell sharply in the final three quarters in 2011, resulting in market prices face downward pressure of knitted fabrics. In view of the group in the period under reviewUse is earlier than most of the cotton and cotton yarn in stock at high cost to purchase, so the group adversely affect gross profit for the six months ended February 29, 2012. "Fountain Xia Jinan, Managing Director said in a report. In the face of grim survival situation, from the NGO environmental groups for enterprise production sewage treatment and cost pressures as FukIndustrial new burden. However, the fountain set reply to an interview with this newspaper that the company "energy-saving emission reduction and environmental protection in recent years one of the corporate social responsibility as a long-term goals. Continue to tie in with the general direction of the national policy on environmental protection, such as responding to building environmental protection industrial park, investment in construction of a new sewage treatment plant in Dongguan, which will meet the latest requirements of the Government and the future increaseWater reuse in direction. So the Group profitability of investment in environmental protection will not be directly affected, and this group would not be lower because of profit increase or decrease attention in environmental protection ". It is obvious that more medium and small scale of operation of micro-enterprises could not have fountain, its environmental equipment investment funds. In the face of these pressures, United States natural resources Defense Council(NRDC) gave textile enterprise's "energy-saving emission reduction" 10-point proposal, costs are particularly high. "Small and medium-sized textile enterprise to solve the sewage problem, separate operations and pollution control equipment is expensive, so emissions in some regions could be considered as a whole tender programme, namely sewage enterprises in accordance with the cost of shared governance in emissions, by a third party professional sewage treatmentCompanies bidding, and to ensure that the discharge standards. "Industry and commerce, Chamber of Commerce, the first environmental service industry Wen Yibo told reporters. However, this solution in addition to emissions outside the relative concentration of enterprises distribution area, costs will continue to increase. In this case, to cleaning up textile enterprise's supply chain from your source pollution-related problems, supplier upgrading and brands who enjoy no doubt more important。 (Editors: Wen Jie)
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